Nyamuk, Batu Caves

The most updated information on the routes at Nyamuk can be located at Rock Climbing – Nyamuk. However, I do have some older stuff that I picked up along the way which no longer seems to have a home on the web so I’m giving it this little space. If you find it useful, I’m glad. Some of the following used to be available on Rock Climbing, but for some reason, somebody saw fit to delete it…

There have been more new developments to Nyamuk since I saved the following information, so the link above will be required to supplement this information.

A picture speaks a thousand words, so here’s my map on how to get there:

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Alternatively, there are some written directions on how to find Nyamuk wall at:

The Rock Pod – Nyamuk (route information on this site is obsolete, though)

Rock Climbing – Nyamuk

The book “Climb Malaysia” also has a good section of Nyamuk, although the route information will be a little out of date by now…

There are now quite a number of sections in Nyamuk, so I find the following diagram helpful for identifying where each section is located.

The followign are the old route descriptions from Rock Climbing – Nyamuk. I saved these quite some time back, so I’m pretty certain there ought to be some new routes added to this list since then.

ANOPHELES

17 m high freestanding boulder at the left side of the crag. Nice for instructing purposes. Range of difficulty 5.8 – 5.10d.

1. Merdekar-Crash 5.10a, 6 bolts, 17m, start at the big stalactite that marks the centre of the overhanging side of Anopheles. Nice and pumpy. FA: J. Peet, P. Andrey (Oct 7 2003)

2. Project 6 bolts, right of Merdekar-Crash. (Dec 8 2003)

3. Lariam 5.9, 6 bolts, 17 m, left of “Adreanachrome”, nice left traverse and superb holds to the top. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

4. Adrenachrome 5.9, natural pro, 17m, nice left leaning crack that leads through the slab of Anopheles. The crack offers all kind of sizes. Ideal to learn how to use natural protection. (Nov 23 2003)

5. Fansidar 5.8, 5 bolts, 15 m, on the slab right of “Adrenachrome”, good beginner route. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

6. Ticks and Tape 5.9, 4 bolts, 14m, right of Fansidar, starts right of the block, just a bit lower than the neighbouring routes. Crux is obviously the start, if you help yourself with the tree, the route is much easier. (Nov 23 2003)

SHIELDTOX
Most of the single pitch routes are 30 m long and offer vertical to slightly overhanging climbing. Range of difficulty: 5.9 – 5.12c.

1. Orange Juice 5.7, 4 bolts, 14 m, a good beginner route that follows the walkable ramp at the left hand side of Shieldtox. A step up on a stalactite leads to a huge ledge and the anchor. FA: P. Andrey (Sep 23 2003)

2. Oxymoron 5.11b, 10 bolts, 29 m, great route with technical crux after juggy traverse. This route is a prolongation of Two Pints, actually the most left route at Shieldtox and Nyamuk. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

3. Le Futur 5.11a, 10 bolts, 30m, leading though the reddish rock at the very left of Shieldtox. Definitely one of the best 6c’s in the country! Maybe a bit tricky at the start, but then good holds all the way with an exceptional finish on first class rock. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

4. Station to Station 5.10c, bolted, This is a funny traverse starting with “Two Pints” and traversing all the way to the top of “Voltaren”. The second pitch follows the huge ledge to the right and then again traversing all the way to a belay on top of “Osmosis”. From here it is planned to traverse another 3 pitches, but this has not been climbed yet. FA: : P. Andrey, J. Peet (Nov 23 2003)

5. Two Pints 5.8, 4 bolts, Direct start to “Orange Juice”. This start is also used for “Le Futur …”. Two Pints was the incentive Shannon would have received if he would have on sighted “Diaper Jaya”. Unfortunately he did not, so he only got a glass of Orange Juice. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

6. Stigmata 5.12c, 11 bolts, 30 m, very small crimps and balancy at crux, pumpy ending. FA: Kevin Tan (Dec 28 2003)

7. Love at first bite 5.12c, 11 bolts, 32 m, excellent route with a dead point boulder move that marks the crux half way up the route. After the crux very nice and sustained climbing. One of the best routes in Nyamuk. FA: Philip Lim (Dec 7 2003)

8. Chess 5.11d, 10 bolts, 30 m of exposed climbing left of “Diaper Jaya”. The route is marked by the prominent roof that awaits the challenger after 20 m of nice, but dicey climbing. This roof leads to a perfect hand crack. Where the crack ends the crux starts (just before the anchor)The route was named after “Chess”, our cute and stubborn black and white rabbit who jumped off the balcony and said good by to this world while I was climbing the route. FA. P. Andrey (Dec 7 2003)

9. Don’t Underbreak Me 5.9, 10 bolts, 2 threads, 31 m, follows Diaper Jaya for 6 bolts, then heads left up thru the reddish crumbly looking rock onto the ledge and spacey to the anchor. Fa: P. Andrey (Dec 28 2003)

10. Lau Beh 5.11c, 12 bolts, 31 m, extension of Diaper Jaya. instead of heading right to the anchor you tackle the overhang on top of the route. Fa P. Andrey (Jan 17 2004

11. Diaper Jaya 5.10b, 9 bolts, 29 m, nice line following the black dihedral left of “Bowel Movement” (sharing the same anchor)FA: P. Andrey, J. Peet (Dec 28 2003)

12. Bowel Movement 5.10a, 8 bolts, 28 m, beautiful 6a route left of “Pear”, leading through reddish rock on constantly good holds. First of a series of easy routes that were bolted with the aim to offer a new climbing area to the KL climbing community. FA: J. Peet, P. Andrey (Dec 28 2003)

13. Pear 5.12a, 8 bolts, 27 m, straight forward on crimps leading through the black rock right of “Bowel Movement”. FA: Aswadi Noor (Nov 23 2003)

14. In Guns we trust 5.9, 10 bolts, 30 m, nice route that leads into the prominent flake in the centre of Shieldtox. Crux at the end when you are forced to leave the cosy environment of the inside of the flake. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

15. Bangsar Babes Backdrop 5.10b, 10 bolts, 30 m, this exceptional route runs along the left side of the prominent root that leaads to the big ledge above the right part of Shieldtox. Technical slab-climbing for most of the route, however the finish is overhanging on big squared holds. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

16. Voltaren 5.10a, 10 bolts, 28 m, right exit variation of “Bangsar Babes” leading on top of the big ledge. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

17. Kamchatka 5.10b, 8 bolts, 25 m, start left of “Shiok Sendiri”, similar outfit, but a little bit easier than Shiok. The rapell anchor was placed low in order to keep the difficulties moderate. FA: Fa, P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

18. Shiok Sendiri 5.10b, 8 bolts, 27 m, superb route starting next to the big tree located in front of the central slab of Shieldtox. Steep start, followed by a slab that leads to a vertical section and overhanging finish. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

19. Hot Tempered Freaking Glue Gun 5.10d, 10 bolts, 30m, shares start with Shiok Sendiri, then heads right up the slab to a bulge where the crux is waiting. Then follows a jugfest that makes you smile. FA: Akmal Noor and Patrick Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

20. Prophylaxis 5.12c, 11 bolts, 32 m, right of ” Hot Tempered Freaking Glue Gun”, after technical start easy cruising to a powerful move that tests your flexibility. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

DENGUE
This is the playground for hard movers: Long and technical challenging routes on slightly overhanging bombastic rock. Range of difficulty: 5.12a – 5.13c.

1. Foreign Investment 5.12a, 12 bolts, 32 meters, first third of easy cruising leading to a technical crux followed by good holds that test your stamina.FA: P. Andrey (Sep 18 2003)

2. Osmosis 5.12d, 14 bolts, 37 metres long by about 6 metres overhanging. nice stamina climb with technical crux. Pumpy stalactite marks the first third of the route, then crimps that lead to another stalactite. Pumpy again at the end. FA:Patrick Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

3. Project (Dec 1 2003)

4. The Pledge 5.13b, 8 bolts, 25 m, slightly overhanging technical climb an crimps. most beautiful climb in Malaysia. FA: Patrick Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

5. IMM (Integrated Mosquito Management) 5.13c, 15 bolts, Extension of “The Pledge”. Another 17 meters of steep and pumpy climbing, partly on stalactites.FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

FUMAKILLA
With nearly 100 m highest sector of Nyamuk, though most of the routes are single pitch. Range of difficulty: 5.8 – 5.12b.

1. Moral Moron 5.12b, 6 bolts, Nice line left of “Monkeyland”, onto the ledge where the difficulties begin: powerful moves at bolt 2 and 3, then up the stalactite to a smooth section that needs commitment. The rest is good holds on stalactites. FA: Adi Noor (Nov 23 2003)

2. Monkey Land 5.12a, 6 bolts, 17 m, crux that requires finger power and commitment. FA: Patrick Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

3. Two Drops 5.10c, 5 bolts, 16 m, route right of “Monkey Land”. Mantle on a ledge, a stalactite/dihedral to go for and a nice crack at its end. Scary enough to let go two drops on the way up. FA: Jeremy Peet (Nov 23 2003)

4. My Favourite Things 5.10d, 5 bolts, 16 m, right of “Two Drops”, nice challenging halfway up the route. FA: Yves Gosselin, Andy Rylance (Nov 23 2003)

5. Alam Flora 5.10c, 3 bolts, 12 m, nice little route right of “My Favourite Things”, one tricky move, plenty of jugs at the end. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

6. Jalan Sehala 5.9, 4 bolts, 12 m, left of the big vine tree leading up on big steps through the embracing branches. FA.P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

7. Ilias 5.10c, 4 bolts, 12 m, start shared with “Training Day”, going left into the obvious crack. Funky layback move or technical, but much easier solution. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

8. Ulysse 5.10b, 4 bolts, 13 m, named after Marco’s newborn son. This route shares the start with “Training Day”, but heads straight up. Technical climb on sharp holds. FA: Marco Beurret, Patrick Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

9. Training Day 5.10d, bolted, 4 pitch route that leads thru the highest part of Nyamuk and skirts the prominent triangular roof that leaps over Fumakilla sector. Start at the stalactite next to the impressive vine-tree that marks the centre of Fumakilla. Total route length about 100m, pitches: 5c, 5b+, 6b, 5c. The crux pitch is a stunning dihedral of 30m length that asks for sophisticated stemming. FA: by Patrick Andrey and Jeremy Peet (Nov 23 2003)

10. First May Variant 5.7, bolted, 1 sling, Follows the second pitch of “Training Day”, then heads up and to the right to the anchor of “Labour Day”. This route was climbed and crawled through on Natural Pro by Patrick and Yen while the wall was still covered with thick vines. It was used as a access route in order to bolt the routes at Fumakilla. (Nov 23 2003)

11. Labour Day 5.10b, 4 bolts, 15 m, this route starts on the ledge above the first pitch of training day. a bit hidden, this line is not climbed often, since not many people have had knowledge about its existence. Go for it, its a nice, however a bit committing climb. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

12. Training Rules 5.10a, 6 bolts, Combination of Training day and Rules of Attraction. Use the big ledge to cross over and enjoy the big jugs of RoA. FA: David Roderick (Nov 23 2003)

13. The Rules of Attraction 5.11a, 6 bolts, Route right of Training Day. Start at huge, but sharp holds, followed by the crux on crimps. The second part leads through reddish rock with excellent jugs. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

14. Stupid With Manners 5.11c, 6 bolts, Boulder start that requires weird balancing moves (Jan 18 2004

15. David et la Marseilleaise 5.11a, 5 bolts, Route right of “Stupid with manners”. 16 m, powerful start on sharp stalactite. the rest is easy. FA: Marco Beurret (Nov 23 2003)

16. Dirk Diggler 5.9, 9 bolts, 27 m, left of “Fire Starter”, shares the same start, then heads left to a bulge. FA: J. Peet, P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

17. Fire Starter 5.8, 8 bolts, 1 sling, 28 m, follows the crack/dihedral that divides Fumakilla. Layback at the 2nd bolt, easy for crack climbers, unusual for limestone FA: P. Andrey,J. Peet (Nov 23 2003)

18. Up in Smoke 5.9, 7 bolts, 2 slings, 26m, starts with “Fire Starter”, heads left above the big block and up the stalactites. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

19. Because I Got High 5.10d, 5 bolts, Route to the far right of Fumakilla. 17 m, following the obvious dihedral through smooth rock to a finish with a nice surprise. FA: P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

RIDSECT
Sector at the right of Fumakilla. Can be reached directly from below (turn right at the bolder next to the last house and follow the trail slightly to the right) or you scramble down from the right hand side of Fumakilla. The left hand side of this sector offers climbing on stalactites of all sizes, the right hand side has smoother rock similar to White Wall. Range of difficulty: 5.10b – 5.10b.

1. Daisy Chain 5.10b, 12 bolts, This route takes the furthest left lane of the rows of stalactites at the left hand side of “Ridsect”. Good holds all the way. Watch out when lowering, this route is 32m long! FA: J. Peet, P. Andrey (Oct 17 2003)

2. Tribute to Jimmy Pop 5.10b, 9 bolts, 2 threads, 32m, climb the row of stalactites right of Daisy Chain. Crux at the overhanging finish. FA: J. Peet, P. Andrey (Nov 23 2003)

3. Limited Liability 5.10b, 8 bolts, left of “800 Bucks Down the Hill”, the route follows the obvious crack. FA: P. Andrey (Dec 7 2003)

4. 800 Bucks Down the Hill 5.10b, 9 bolts, left of Otesanek, a crack leads to a comfortable ledge, from there steep up on good holds. FA: Mike Tee

5. Otesanek 5.10c, 5 bolts, short route that starts left of the obvious stilt root at the right hand side of Ridsect. The route follows the dihedral. FA: P. Andrey (Dec 7 2003)

6. The Legacy of Luna 5.10d, 9 bolts, 24m, route at the right hand side of Ridsect, start right of the tree/root of “Otesanek”. Technical and a good test for your onsight capabilities FA: P. Andrey (Dec 7 2003)

LARVA
This is the huge boulder/rock that marks the entrance of Nyamuk. At the moment there are 3 short routes along the trail to “Fumakilla”. Range of difficulty: 5.7 – 5.10c. (Dec 1 2003)

1. Pulpit 5.7, 3 threads, 11 m, start at the stalactite left of “Stoning Lee”. Check out the hollow stalactite that gave the name to this line.FA: Peet, Andrey (Oct 19 2003)

2. Stoning Lee 5.10c, 3 bolts, 11m, taking the overhanging wall left of “Easy Root”. Lee got hit by a stone when Jeremy went for the anchor. FA: J. Peet (Oct 19 2003)

3. Easy Root 5.8, 1 bolt, 1 thread, 9m, this route is characterized by the root that leads the way and disapears through a tunnel at the very top. FA: J. Peet (Nov 23 2003)

There is also a short description about Nyamuk at Nomad Adventure -Nyamuk.

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