I’d like to give credit to the person who provided me with all this information but it was a long time ago when I took it off a webpage that I can no longer locate. If you recognise any of this stuff as your work, please let me know, because I’d like to give due respect to where it’s owed.
I recorded all this information with the intention of going back to Bukit Takun, but I never got around to it. I’m not even sure about the routes we climbed during my first and only trip to Bukit Takun because we just rocked up that day and climbed the first route that looked “doable” to us.
When I found the following information on Bukit Takun, I tried to identify the area we climbed. Based on the route descriptions, I’m guessing it would have been “Rock Root” and the first pitch of “Pussey Key”. Of course, back then we were definitely no match for a 6B+, so we cheated our way through “Rock Root” climbing the tree vine that was conveniently placed alongside the route.
How to get there:
Follow Jalan Kuching / Jalan Ipoh for almost 14km past the toll to reach a petrol station on the right hand side. Turn right off the main road immediately past the petrol station. Head back towards the petrol station on a side road and turn left before reaching it. Follow this road over a bridge to a “T” junction and turn right. Follow the road, which bends round to the left, and up as far as the Golf Club House. Take a road on the left, opposite the Golf Club House just on a right hand bend. Follow this road to the top of the hill and turn left up towards the Villa overlooking the golf course at the base of the cliff. Park somewhere on this road and walk up to and behind the villa where a path through the forest can be found. Follow the path, at first more or less straight up and then diagonally left until near the base of the cliff where the path splits at a rock.
Description of the Area:
A good variety of climbing is to be found here and there is much scope for exploration and new routes. The routes described are bolted unless otherwise stated. Shade can be found for most of the day and many of the routes remain dry during the heaviest rain storms, though lightning frequently strikes the mountain. A 60 metre rope may be useful on some of the climbs or even a double rope for some of the multi pitch routes. All multi-pitch routes require an abseil descent unless otherwise stated.
The routes in the order that they are approached.
Routes on the left hand side of the crag:-
From where the path splits, follow it up and leftwards until very close to the bottom of the rock face, where you’ll notice that the ground becomes dry. Head diagonally down and then across to the foot of a reddish coloured slab to find the following routes.
- Expotential Starter, 5c, Ao, Ao
Pitches 1 and 2 – P Andrich, A Foo, 1996
Pitch 3 – P Andrich, M Estey, 5 Jan 1997
- Toes and Tips, 6b
P Andrich, A foo, 4 Feb 1996
- Tyrannosaurus Rex, 6c+, 7a+(Ao), 6b, 6b
P Andrich, D Estey, July 1997
From the bottom of the reddish slab, walk left and along a ramp for a few meters until you can scramble up to the bottom of a huge pillar of flow stone, at the bottom of which starts:
- China Girl, 6a+
D Estey, P Andrich, 13 Jul 97
From the bottom of China Girl, scramble up a 5m rock face to the right and then walk right for a few meters to a stance in a bay. The following routes start to the left of the stance where the flowstone meets the solid rock.
- Cerro’s Ladder, 5+
S Brown, G Hustinx, D Estey, Apr 1997
- Stairway to Heaven, 6a+, 5+, 6a+, 6a+ (P1 climb pitch 1 of Cerro’s ladder until an obvious traverse right can be made to a stance. P2 The route continues in a short pitch up through the stalactites to a large stance. P3 bear left and up to a stance at the base of a chimney. P4 climb the chimney until an awkward move out onto the face can be made and then straight up to the top anchor)
Pitches 1, 2 and 3 (part) – P Andrich, D Estey, 7 Dec 1997
Pitches 3 (part) and 4 – S Brown, C Wilson, Jun 1999
Back to the bottom of the reddish slab, head down a vague track and then across keeping close to the bottom of some granite slabs to find:
- The King’s Birthday, 6a+, 6a+, 6a (it is possible to walk/scramble off to the right and down to the foot of China Girl)
P Andrich, D Estey, 7 Jun 1997
- Tarzan, 6a+ (take spare tat for top anchor)
S Brown, Nov 1997
Keep on going slightly down, around and then slightly up and back onto limestone to find the start of:
- Transtakunian Skyway, 6a, 6c, 5c, 6a+, 6a, 7a+(Ao)
P Andrich, D Estey, M Estey, E Burtscher, M Vasse, Apr-Jul 1997
Routes to the right hand side of the crag:-
Back to where the path splits, follow it up and rightwards for a short while until you’ll see a short steep wall with a flowstone smear on the right hand side. This wall contains the following routes from left to right:
- Red Legged Cricket, 6b+
S Brown, E Burtscher, M Sant, 25 May 1997
- Jimeny Cricket, 6b
S Brown, G Hustinx, 18 may 1997
A few meters on to the right where the path meets the rock is:
- Beginner’s, 5
P Andrich, 16 Jun 1996
- Spider Line, 6b, 6a (P1 climb the corner with an overhang at the bottom and up to a stance shared with Rock Root and Pussey Key. P2 Traverse left at first, then up)
P Andrich, M Vasse, D Estey, Steve, Matthew, Jan 1997
- Rock Root, 6b+ (climb up past a root which is useful to thread a sling around, then past the first stance of Pussey Key and directly up to the second stance of Pussey Key, which is also shared with Spider Line)
P Andrich, A Foo, 10 Mar 1996
- Pussey Key, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b (P1 start at a weeping stalactite, move round the corner and up the dihedral to a ledge. P2 climb the short wall on the right and then make an awkward move up the wall above. Go left to the stance. P3 Climb the steep wall above until a move right can be made, step up onto a block, move up again and then right to the stance. P4 move back left and then up the steep flowstone above. Continue up short steps and a slab to a stance. The route from here, can be continued to the top of the mountain in 5 more pitches, taking on a more adventurous character, in which case a selection of nuts, friends and slings is advisable. You can then take the path down.. Alternatively, abseil back down.)
Pitches 1-3 P Andrich, A Foo, Feb-Apr 1996
Pitch 4 P Andrich, M Estey, 12 Jan 1997
Remaining pitches P Andrich, D Estey, Steve, Yuen Li, Mar 1997
Up the path a few meters is an obvious large boulder. In the gap behind the boulder is:
- Raindance, 7a+, ?
E Burtscher, M Vasse 1997
- Magic Sensations, 5+, 6b (6a+) (P1 start right of the large boulder and climb up to the stance. P2 continue up and onto a clean wall, move left and then up. Alternatively, go right, up and then back round left to the same stance (6a+))
P Andrich, D Estey, M Vasse, May 1997
- Hornet Direct, 5+ (P1 as for Magic sensations. P2 continue directly up the dihedral where Magic Sensations splits either right or left – wires and friends required)
S Brown, G Hustinx, Sep 1997
From here follow the track upwards for about 5 minutes to reach a large wall with gafiti on it and a big hole at the bottom. To the right of the hole and wall are the following routes from left to right:
- Pra Nang Start, 6b+/6c
E Burtscher, M Vasse, 7 Dec1997
- Purple Haze, 6b+, 6b+ (6a) (wires and friends required – can be done in one pitch. An alternative to the second pitch is to traverse right and then up a line of flowstone (6a))
P Andrich, D Estey, G Hustinx, Sep 1997
- Pee Like a Man, 6c
M Vasse, E Burtscher, 14 Dec 1997
- Bee Calmed, 6a+, 5 (wires and friends required – P1 starts up Purple Haze and moves right onto the slab, traversing right under the overhang and on to a ledge and stance. P2 straight up the crack above)
S Brown, M Santo, 23 Nov 1997
Note: Apparantly, a 3 pitch route requiring nuts and friends takes the direct line of Bee Calmed, starting at an obvious wide crack right of Pee Like a Man. This route was climbed by Mr Ho, years ago.
- 93$ Fish, 5c, 6a, 6b (starts further right in a recess – wires and friends required)
D Estey, G Hustinx, 23 Nov 1997
- Hong Kong Pound, ?
D Estey, Matthew, Nov 1998
Continue along the foot of the crag to reach an area where there’s a shelter and seats. There are both traditional and sports routes here.
You can also get more information on Bukit Takun at the following sites:
There is also a book published by Climb Asia called “Climb Malaysia”. I believe there is section on Bukit Takun with directions, some topos and route descriptions.